Chicken Devel (Sri Lankan Devilled Chicken)

Sri Lankan Chicken Devilled and the Fire in the Fog

The hills of Ella had swallowed me whole.

I had come for the trains, the endless green, the kind of quiet that makes men reconsider their lives. But the mist had rolled in fast, thick as wool, turning the world into nothing but shifting shadows and the distant hum of unseen waterfalls. I had no choice but to stop.

The guesthouse was perched on the edge of the hillside, its walls half-swallowed by creeping vines, the kind of place run by a man who had once been something else—maybe a smuggler, maybe a monk. It was impossible to tell.

“You eat?” he asked, as though I had any other option.

I nodded.

And so the fire began.

The plate arrived, piled high with chicken, bone-in, the color of a setting sun—deep red, slick with oil, reckless with spice. The air filled with vinegar sharp enough to wake the dead, onions blackened at the edges, tomatoes collapsed into something dark and urgent.

And then, the chilies.

They were everywhere, scattered like a warning, sliced so thin I almost mistook them for decoration. Almost.

I took a bite.

The first wave—deceptively sweet, the sugar coaxing me in like a siren in calm water. Then, the second—heat that did not build so much as erupt. My throat closed. My sinuses cleared. My soul briefly left my body and reconsidered returning.

Across the table, the guesthouse owner sipped his tea, watching, bemused.

“Too hot?”

I shook my head, because pride is a dangerous thing.

The mist outside thickened, curling through the trees like a slow-moving ghost. The hills, the tea fields, the world itself disappeared, leaving nothing but this plate, this fire, this moment.

I finished every bite.

I sat back, breathing hard, already knowing I’d do it again.

Some pains are worth repeating.

Continue…

What Does Devel Mean?

Devil (or ‘devel‘) in Sri Lankan cooking refers to a hot and flavorful culinary style known for its intense spiciness and rich, aromatic flavors. This cooking technique is said to have been brought to Sri Lanka by Chinese immigrants in the 19th century who set up restaurants to cater to other Chinese working outside what is now the port of Colombo.

Devel often involves marinating meats, typically chicken or beef, in a potent blend of spices, including chili, black pepper, garlic, and ginger, before stir-frying them. The result is a dish that packs a punch, with a nice balance of heat and complex flavors.

Chicken Devel Ingredients

• 500 grams Chicken; segmented. You can use light or dark meat. In my opinion the best choice is to use chicken wing flats cut in half.
• 1 Onion; yellow. Chopped.
• 4 cloves Garlic; minced.
• 1 tsp Ginger; crushed.
• 2 Chilies; This is where your spice is coming from so you can pick chilies that are suitable for your palate. Just cut them into bite size pieces.
• 1 Tomato; medium sized. Chopped.
• 2 tsp Curry Powder (just blitzed coriander, cumin seeds, and fennel seeds)
• 2 Curry Leaves. You can buy Sri Lankan curry leaves here
• 1 tsp Turmeric Powder
• 1 tbsp Lime Juice
• 2 tbsp Tomato Sauce
• 1 tsp Oyster Sauce
• 1 tsp Soy Sauce
• 1 tbsp Butter
• 1 tsp Salt; or to taste.

Chicken Devel Instructions

1. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and let sit for 15 minutes.
2. In a pot, add the chicken pieces and then add just enough water to cover the meat. Turn on the heat and boil until the water is almost completely dissolved.
3. Keep the heat on high, and add the butter. Then add the curry powder, chili pieces, onion, crushed ginger, turmeric, tomato, and finally garlic. Mix well and let cook until fragrant.
4. Turn the heat down low and add the sauces. Toss to coat. Plate and drizzle over the lime juice and serve immediately.

How To Store Sri Lankan Devilled Chicken

Chicken devel can be stored for 3 days in the refrigerator, and in my opinion the next day the flavors are even more infused. You can reheat easily in the microwave.

Devilled chicken is best served alongside steamed white rice, but fried rice is also very popular.